#AND i can basically only wear stretchy fabrics

[fagdykevash]

looking at the notes of that poll. god i wish that were me

[hoardlikegoldenirises]

*leans casually on wall* hey,

i will take ANY excuse to design an outfit, especially wedding outfits, idk why— I just think they're fun.

there were originally two tuxedos involved in this (on the hair timeline drawing), with Flash's white and Peter's blue, but as I was editing my notes I ended up moving some stuff around and shunted Flash's transition forward by about a year and a half because it made more sense to happen around the time they get married instead of nearly 2 years later...

So like any reasonable person, I thought to myself, "oh boy! time to spend four days on a wedding dress!" (the drawing didn't take four days, i just spent a lot of time looking stuff up)

💐

closeups and thoughts under the cut:

in my head the top part of the dress is at least partially some kind of soft, flexible fabric, like a stretch satinet or whatever, or one of those really soft matte stretchy fabrics, but i honestly wasn't sure how exactly to handle that considering I'm not a tailor myself... like there should probably be a waist seam where the top meets the skirt, though probably hidden by the embroidery at least a little bit... though i guess it could also be that there is a layer of already-embroidered georgette over the top of a slip...

i did not hand draw this embroidery by the way. i almost tried. and then after .5 seconds i said, "oh this doesn't look good and i don't know what i'm doing." so then i used some brushes in clip studio paint and colored in colors i liked and added some beads that are basically not visible at 100% zoom (lmao)

they're there, i swear. i just think it would be cute if there were some very small beads adding a bit of sparkle...

Anyway, I just thought the flowers and colors would be nice. And I know you're probably thinking "huh, where'd they get sheer fabric that's only embroidered on part of it?" considering all those pre-made fabrics w/ the flowers all over... or "where did they get that dress custom-made? did one of their friends pay for it?" to which normally I would say "yeah lol they know at least a half a dozen rich people" but in this case... Well, this is a wedding that involves Peter. and Peter is nothing if not extra, impulsive, romantic, and a masochist—

Peter hand-sewed the entire dress, including the embroidery.

I figure, if he can embroider spider webs onto his suit then surely he can handle this ,as long as he has something to go off of. the dress itself isn't exactly the most complex, except maybe the skirt part falling in a specific way, so this is just another idk how many hours for him to spend futzing around with a needle and thread and insisting he can finish it in time. point in favor, because he does, but only because they have to postpone the wedding from March to May for other, unrelated reasons LMAO

also i just think it's romantic... and i like the idea of him making things with his hands all the time... he takes up woodworking a year or two before this iirc lol (the reasons for that are more morbid though... 😅)

anyway, i wanted the skirt to look nice in a wheelchair without getting in the way of things like the brake grips or the push-rims, so Flash can still move herself around (esp since she doesn't have handles on the back of her wheelchair lol) so that was another thing i was looking at pictures of. I really like georgette so I think it's probably layers of georgette, but drawing that is... hard.

probably looks a little more like this?

but plain ivory obviously, not plaid. drapey with a soft hand, not too fluffy or stiff. probably a satin slip or something underneath.

elegant... backless... I mean if Peter is the one designing it (though presumably Flash has SOME input, I mean, she's the one wearing it) how could he possibly resist the opportunity? (i just think backless dresses look nice) (also it shows off her back muscles, probably)

lmao

as it says in the pic, i figured this should be designed so it's comfortable to sit in and doesn't get tugged around a bunch but I will be honest. i did not have a lot of luck trying to research that so I gave up. I'm sure there's a way to do it but I have no idea how to draw it so I'm handwaving it along with the mysterious missing waist seam LOL

but also it's a wedding dress and most wedding dresses are wildly inconvenient even if you have absolutely no disabilities whatsoever.

at least she doesn't have to go commando...

though i'm sure going to the bathroom is a real nightmare lol

the bouquet and the veil are both on the back of the wheelchair—this was already true even before I decided Flash was gonna use this as an opportunity to be way more girly than usual, but it's still true here too. Though I did end up changing the flowers cause I realized I didn't like what I had, so the final bouquet is a mix of peonies, flowering dogwood, and some kind of wildflower that would be in season in May. Plus the red ribbon to match Peter's accessories.

oh and there's Flash's makeup too. Simple, not too dramatic. I don't imagine her ever being a red lipstick and dramatic eyeshadow kind of person, whether at a wedding with colorful dress or not, but some lip gloss and a little bit of shimmery eyeshadow that you can barely see sounds nice... maybe copper mascara or whatever but nothing dark.

her hair is also not super complicated or fancy, and she has no jewelry or anything like that, aside from the engagement ring... just a nice low bun with some pretty wisps 💞 Courtesy of MJ almost definitely!!

And the yarmulke is for a multitude of reasons. "Technically" Flash is not "legally" a woman at this point, isn't even out to her family yet (lol. lmao.) and hasn't legally changed her name yet either (she's going to after they get married), and I don't even know what the rabbi would think (i mean, i'm sure they've discussed by the time the wedding happens lol) but women wear yarmulkes these days too (these days is... 2014... btw), and Flash will have converted like 4 years before the wedding already (for reasons unrelated to Peter) so it's important to her... so, ultimately, regardless of requirements or level of reformness, I think she just wants to wear one.

Peter gets one too.

isn't he handsome?

lbr he probably wouldn't have even thought about it if Flash didn't bring it up. too busy thinking about what color of tiny beads to sew onto her dress XD

I DID loosely base some elements of Peter's tuxedo on the one from the iconic PeterMJ wedding cover—

—but mostly in ways I probably would have done anyway (dark blue tux... red cummerbund... etc.) (actually now that i think about it, the comic tux is probably meant to be black, huh) and I didn't want to make it actually the same so I gave him a pleated shirt and I didn't use a carnation for his boutonniere. Instead, dogwood (to match the bouquet obviously)—all the flowers I picked I'm PRETTY sure are in-season in May in NYC. as if they couldn't just go to any random garden and get some damn roses but I wanted to be more specific.

Peter doesn't make his tuxedo XD He also doesn't buy or rent it—Johnny Storm is the one in charge here because he insists, Peter. It's a special occasion!! He'd never let his best friend who he's totally not a little bit in love with wear a rental tuxedo to his own wedding! God Forbid. Peter eventually allows him to do so under the stipulation that Johnny keeps it tasteful and classy and "not too expensive."

Which to Johnny means "expensive silks and wools."

he's probably wearing suspenders. i didn't bother drawing that.

also these fucking shoes

NO idea if Peter keeps these. I only came up with them today. He was just gonna wear normal shoes before... but again, this is tasteful a la Johnny Storm. But Peter doesn't usually have occasions to dress fancy so having weird pseudo-spat dress boots is like. "What do I even do with these?" ("Wear them!!!")

I almost made the top part white (thus, pseudo-spats) but I think that kind of requires more of a white tie look... it looks nicer black. and hides his spidey-tighties (except he's not wearing his costume under this). Snaps, too! easy on, easy off!

(vaguely based on (these shoes) btw but not 100%)

wedding rings 💍

i already drew the rings a while ago (though i did slightly modify the coloring) so that's still the same. the engagement ring is essentially Flash's very first step into admitting who she wants to be... Peter doesn't even have a proposal planned, he just asks one day over breakfast lmfao but Flash has to think about it a lot so by the time Peter gets a yes (after a serious conversation with Flash about it) Flash is also like... can I have a ring??? and Peter is like OF COURSE (and actually he did have some money saved for this but he didn't know what to do...)

he'd probably make the ring himself if she asked—he doesn't though, they get it from a jeweler. it's... not cheap but it's less than $1000 at least? benefits of being very small and discreet.

Peter probably also offers to get himself one so they're equals here esp since power dynamics is part of the serious conversation and why Flash has to think about his proposal, but it's just not practical for Science Teacher Spider-Man to have an engagement ring and also they do not have money for that many rings.

in my notes Peter is wearing his uncle's wedding ring btw 🥹 i don't think they have Richard and Mary's rings so that's probably not an option. so, resizing Uncle Ben's ring instead.

anyway...

that's everything

here's Flash again, look how pretty she is

normally she just wears comfy athletic clothes and no makeup lol

[turkeydinner-jpeg]

I am trying to find a person who's tags I've read about their grunge skirt that they pin a hundred ways and I think after all it was you 😵 Can you share the pictures please? I am so curious how that looks!

yeah absolutely!! i mess with this thing all the time (i hope you can see it well enough, my room has 1 singular window and is very busy)

for one thing, its the most basic skirt imaginable. black stretchy fabric, no pockets, and 3 tiers of fabric. shes got plenty of walking room, and makes for a perfect base. would not be surprising to find it in the all-american white woman wardrobe. but i am not the all-american woman, therefore i get a little silly with it from time to time

my favorite way to pin it is just one side straight up, it gives dimension and some Pizzazz without being a nuisance (and without getting too cold in the winter). I use one bigass safety pin, but sometimes i get a bit anxious about it coming loose, so i put a bunch of little safety pins around it. you cant see them super well but theyre there i promise

the reflection is miserable but actual pins make it fun too!

when i go to more goth/alternative functions, i do a double pin to make it look like curtains. i like to wear long socks and tights so this lets you see the patterns with some drama. its super fun but i only do it for special occasions LOL

i recently started double pinning on opposite sides, making the overall skirt shorter and more gathered. it might look a bit like a big bag to some, but i like it for the warmer days

my last trick is just to put something around the waist to spice it up. i have this gorgeous green/blue silk scarf and its the perfect size to tie like a belt. very shiny and sleek, and i love the pattern too. another staple is a chain belt, i actually got this one from hot topic (sometimes they have bangers) and i wear it all the damn time, i love it. you can see both of these accessories in Several of my outfit posts teehee

i hope these are helpful! i dont really have a tripod or something to properly take nice pictures so i just sit my phone against my windowsill and hope its good enough... but i hope this gives you some ideas for your own clothes!

[noblebs]

oc deep dive

tagged by @fortunatetragedy <3 just for you I'll do Dev

Phobias: none tbh.

Other fears: crowds, public speaking, basically any situation more than one or two people are Perceiving him lol. otherwise he's pretty hard to rattle.

Pet peeves: doublespeak/people not saying what they mean.

3 items you can find in their bedroom: a couple framed photos of old friends. stone polish. a very large gun.

First thing they notice in a person: how nervous vs self-assured they are in his presence.

On a scale of 1 to 10, how high is their pain tolerance? HA well not much gets through his skin to begin with. I'd say 7 overall, 8 or 9 in certain places he has numbness from nerve damage.

Do they go into fight or flight mode when under pressure? fight if it feels like a physical threat, flight if it's social/emotional.

Do they come from a big family/are they a family person? no, he's only had one person he considered family, and they haven't spoken in years.

What animal represents them best? HMMMMM muskox. :)

What is a smell that they dislike? lavender, and any manufactured floral scents like most perfumes/air fresheners.

Have they broken any bones? oh yeah, several. in the line of duty and all that.

How would a stranger likely describe them? HOLY SHIT BIG MONSTER. Very brooding and imposing, keep a wide berth.

Are they a night owl or a morning bird? mornings.

What is a flavor they hate and a flavor they love? he hates vanilla, not much into sweets in general but he does like licorice.

Do they have any hobbies? woodworking. he especially likes to whittle and do small carvings, precise motor function can be tricky for him but he finds it meditative.

Boom, surprise birthday party! How do they react to surprises? hates surprises and hates being the center of attention, so, poorly lol. if he's in a good mood he'll humor it, but if not he will simply walk away.

Do they like to wear jewelry? not particularly. I like to imagine that, maybe someday, Orion would want to give him a gold bracelet to wear on one of his horns, and he'd appreciate it for the sentamentality.

Do they have neat or messy handwriting? messy af.

What are the two emotions they feel the most? sadness and a sort of apathy that he thinks is contentment (it's the chronic untreated depression).

Do they have a favorite fabric? anything stretchy, most mass produced clothing doesnt fit great otherwise lol.

What kind of accent do they have? broadcast standard American with just a little bit of a Midwestern, he's traveled a lot but been living in rural Iowa for his whole remembered life.

OPEN TAG!!

[slithymomerath]

Review of Spectrum binder vs gc2b binder

Tldr; I’m super happy with my Spectrum binder, would recommend. I like it better than my gc2b ones.

I’m a butch/nonbinaryish person who’s been wearing binders on and off for about 2 years. The binders in question are the Spectrum short binder size S and the gc2b racerback size M.

gc2b binders

Longevity

- Had them for about 1.5 years, wore them probably about once a week on average (rotated between 3-4 and didn’t wear them every day).

- On the one I had the longest (almost 2 years), the shoulder stitching broke. It’s wearable, but the shoulder seam unfolds and makes a weird lump, so I don’t wear it if my other ones are clean.

- The other ones are still in great shape and haven’t stretched out at all.

Comfort

- Pretty comfortable. I often wore them all day and didn’t have any problems. The complaints I wrote below are more or less nitpicks.

- The shoulder straps are made of binding fabric, not stretchy fabric like the back, so those could be a little uncomfortable.

- The seams could be a little harsh, the ones along all the edges and under my armpits running down the inside. Nothing crazy, they just gave me mild red marks sometimes.

- The bottom of the binder doesn’t conform to your rib cage like the band of a bra, it’s a continuation of the fabric panel that’s squishing your chest. For that reason, it would stay elevated at the height of my chest and you could see the edge of it pressing against my shirt. I didn’t like this, so I would pull the back of my binder up high so the front would be tilted down, if that makes any sense. It worked for the most part, but increased the discomfort of the straps a little. I think maybe I should’ve bought a size S instead, that might have resolved this problem.

Binding

- As good as I could expect, did the job, no complaints.

Spectrum binder

Longevity

- Unknown, I just got it today.

Comfort

- Really good. The straps are made of stretchy fabric, not binding fabric, and they’re incredibly comfortable. Since the chest part holds itself on because it’s tight, there’s basically no pressure on the straps. They’re nice and wide, and made of soft fabric. More comfortable than any strapped thing I’ve ever worn.

- The bottom of the binder is the same level as my rib cage! I don’t know if this is because I ordered a smaller size or because Spectrum has some design secret, but I have zero issue with the bottom edge lifting up away from my ribs. It doesn’t squeeze my ribs either, it just rests lightly against them.

- The seams don’t dig into my skin like the gc2b ones do. Very comfortable.

- It feels a little stretchier for breathing purposes. The gc2b one was fine, but this one is even better.

Binding

- Great, everything I could ask for, no complaints.

Verdict

I like my Spectrum binder better than my gc2b ones.

I decided to write this review because I read a lot of tumblr transmasc people’s reviews before deciding to buy this Spectrum binder. The tumblr trans community also alerted me that gc2b binders have gone downhill, which is the only reason I switched brands (although now I’m really happy I did). Thanks y’all! I hope this post can be helpful to another transmasc person.

Photo of me wearing a sports bra

Photos of me wearing the Spectrum binder

Sorry I didn’t include a whole set of front/side/everything comparisons. If you want more information about the binders, feel free to message me.

[steampunkforever]

At its most basic structure gunfire is just minerals (glorified rocks) being thrown really fast. In this aspect, there is very little difference between a specops death squad decked out in NVGs murdering you with suppressed smart-aiming Next Gen battle rifles and some brute named Grug caving in your head with a chunk of boulder. The only thing that separates the two is the advent of flint knapping, the way they style their beards, and the variation of head trauma they administer you in a dark cave located somewhere in the region people used to call "Asia Minor."

Much in this way, jeans are jeans. The cuts, colors, and styling have changed across the years, but in form and function not much differs from the sturdy workwear gold rush prospectors donned before hitting the slopes of Pikes Peak in 1859 and the black skinny jeans worn by starbucks baristas in Denver as the prepare to enter the Frappe mines.

Of course, much like comparing David's Slingshot to Raytheon's latest missile (an activity reserved for the IDF), much has changed since Levi Strauss riveted together his first pair of trousers. Specifically, the world has seen the introduction of stretch fabrics beyond mankind's comprehension, both a boon to emo band frontmen and a curse to the environment.

Those of you who've followed this blog long enough are well aware of my demographic's use of stretchy jeans to rebel against the oppressive bagginess of the 90s and early 00s. As such, I've been thoroughly indoctrinated into the stretch. Though never extruding myself into a pair of skinny jeans, I've been a strong proponent of slim-fits from the moment I was able to escape the bagginess of the past. Is this bagginess in now? Yes, but so were JNCOS for a time so let's not trust the trend cycle with our lives just yet.

The point is, my denim has always needed to be tight. Wearing pants is outright stressful otherwise. But I simultaneously fully understand that stretch fabrics are bad for the environment. The elastics in your jeans poison the environment with each wash, and will hang out in landfills long after the cotton that bound them has returned to the earth. A conundrum to say the least.

I'll fully admit that I came upon the answer to my problem in a flash of pure coincidence, having thrown a couple pairs of cheap straight-leg 100% cotton jeans in my cart fully intending on using them as throwaways for when I didn't need to think about what I looked like but needed something rugged that didn't look like cargo pants. Little did I know that my denim savior rested in overly stiff jeans that looked baggy on me in the fitting room.

See, 100% cotton jeans are the sort that have what we call a "break-in period," like when you buy a new corvette and it makes you wait a second before you can unlock the full RPM range. Not that I can afford a new Corvette, I'm buying store-brand jeans at America's least glamorous retailer, but you get the point. The break in period lets you put some wear and tear in the denim, relaxing it and letting it loosen up, providing a better, if baggier, fit and getting that "comfortable as an old pair of jeans" feel that we lost in the vacuformed denim era championed by bands like Sleeping with Sirens.

So I broke them in. I ignored washing instructions entirely, I rewired old cars in them, I didn't care about them and I showed them that, which in hindsight I realized was probably the best thing I could've done for them. Stiffness softened to structure, the color faded pleasantly, and rather than looking and feeling awkward, the jeans began to conform to my body. Hefting a cast iron intake out from under the hood of a car that shares a birthday with your parents is great for getting denim to fit just right. Highly suggest treating these jeans like you don't care for optimum results.

Of course then comes the tightness. The denim fibers loosen over the break-in process, and which would make them baggier, and these were already straight-leg jeans, a shape not intended for tightness. And I need my jeans tight. The secret to getting a slim fit was also achieved on accident: I once more ignored washing instructions and threw them in the dryer without looking at the tag.

Denim from brands who care about their image is often treated with anti-shrink solutions in order to maintain the general shape of the cut, but my cheap pants did not, and therefore shrunk just the right amount when thrown into the dryer and spun around on the "whatever" setting.

Under this combined abuse, the cotton shrunk where I needed it to, conforming to my curves while retaining structure and ruggedness required of a good pair of jeans. This isn't a new discovery by any means, but personally it was a revelation to find denim that fit snugly without the guilt of microplastic underpinnings.

There really isn't an outtro for this post, a long winded ramble about how I got some jeans to fit, other than some vague point about looking to the old ways for sustainable options to a plastic filled future. I guess it's just nice to find good-looking denim jeans that aren't prestige brands doing their best to make a new corvette look cheap in comparison. That is all.

[sewingsillythings]

TOS Dress Failures Post

So as I mentioned, I'm beginning a little post here about things I did wrong with my first (yellow) Star Trek: TOS dress, and in the coming days I'll post a few updates about my second (red) dress, and try to show off what I'm doing differently! I am very much an amateur sewer, so maybe don't expect this to be super comprehensive, but I'm going to do my best to talk about the issues I had and just try to shed some light on what ended up being a pretty bare bones pattern. So much stuff I could have done better, some my own folly, some issues with the pattern.

To give you an idea, this is everything that came with the pattern:

The instructions page is double sided, but the other side is just a sizing chart and recommended fabric types, in fact, the instructions occasionally mentioned diagrams that I did not receive, however, from my scouring the internet, this really is the best pattern if you want the right looking fit of the tos skant dresses, so I went with it anyway.

Some of the issue I ran into were:

Length: The little I saw online did suggest you lengthen the skirt and yeah, they were right. I did try to do this, but my lack a familiarity with the patterns made it really inconsistent.

Although the front is actually a good length, it's uneven because I tried to eyeball it (laziness strikes again), and the back (which I obviously didn't do as well) is waay too short for me to consider wearing in public. But the main issue was, being new to the pattern, I didn't realize that piece 'C' would also be forming part of the hemline, leading to this:

As you can see this was a combo of my own follies and lack of comprehensive instructions.

Solution: add a specific amount of CMs to the pattern length and add it every piece (except the H&D sleeve pieces). I will make a post about this when I begin cutting my red fabric to show you all exactly what I'm doing, because I want to make some more measurements before I settle on a length.

2. Sleeves: The guides also said the lengthen and widen the sleeves, which I didn't do but definitely should have, I ripped so many seams just trying it on because the sleeves were too tight:

I also used super stretchy fabric for this yellow dress, so with the cotton I'm using this time I will definitely have to be careful about adding a fair amount of width.

I will say the sleeve length is more of a matter of taste, but for an accurate costume I want them at least to my wrists, and this pattern's sleeve barely reached them, so lengthening is also a good idea. It's always easier to take something in than to let it out!

Solution: Add a few cm to the sleeve width and length, I will probably be doing 5cm extra for both because it's a nice round number, and gives me some wiggle room. For Americans in the audience this is about 2 inches.

3. Zipper: With the stretchy fabric I used I almost definitely did not need a zipper. So I didn't fully put it in. Basting the zipper is step 5 of the pattern, so I just sort of... basted it in and then never fully attached it or made the zipper opening because I was confused about where it went. This is where the pattern insists I should have been following a diagram I did not have:

But I did have the little picture, where the zipper is hidden in the pleat, like so:

As you can see there is supposed to be a slit in the fabric for the zipper to peek through, but the fabric I used was stretchy enough that I could basically just pull it on. Therefore, I never actually cut the slit and just pulled it on. With my less stretchy cotton I will have to put in a zipper, which will be okay because I figured out how to do it properly.

Solution: Instead of sewing the zipper all the way down right away (what I did) you are only supposed to sew it to the top part of the pattern, and leave the hidden/skirt part to sew in later. To be fair, the pattern does say this, I was just confused about the pleating due to my inexperience which led to confusion about the zipper. Generally though, next time, I will start at the top of the garment and work my way to the bottom... that maybe should have been obvious.

So those were the major problems I dealt with with this pattern, and they're also why I'm excited to try it again and make a better version!

I also had a lot of trouble with the pleating, but that was genuinely just my inexperience and not the pattern giving me issues. I could make another post about the problems I had with that if there are other beginners who might want some tips though.

[darklovecat]

Tomorrow's outfit 🤍

Tomorrow our university's med students will do their yearly celebration. It's my first time participating in this sort of event and I am excited to join the celebration with my friend whom I haven't seen in such a long time, I am excited to finally meet and talk with her again, and we will have the chance to meet some of our distinguished faculty members. I also have a few friends that I haven't seen in a while and I am looking forward to seeing them again.

A simple white lace blouse.

I love this lace blouse, it is very feminine and it looks even more stunning in person. The fabric looks very delicate and like it will rip with just one abrupt move but the fabric is quite stretchy. The sleeves are transparent and I can't show my arms for religious reasons, so I'll just wear a white long-sleeved leotard underneath which is VERY convenient because I have a Pilates class tomorrow morning and I can just get changed within seconds. It will also be a little chilly tomorrow so the extra layer will provide me with enough warmth to get through the day. It's a dainty blouse and I just got it but I know that I will get a lot of wear out of it since it is so versatile and I know of a million ways to combine it.

A dark navy skirt.

My absolute favorite, I wear this almost every day along with my black pencil skirt. It's a staple in my closet, I throw this on and I look super polished with absolutely no effort. I always get compliments when I wear this even though there's nothing special about it but it fits me perfectly. My grandma bought me a ton of A-line skirts a while ago and I hate to say it but they are somewhere at the back of my closet now because they are the most uncomfortable skirts in the whole world and they restrict my movement, I always end up ripping them because I can't walk properly in them. This pencil skirt, on the other hand, is a whole different story - the material is extremely stretchy (it is 100% polyester) and it is pretty much impossible to rip, it fits me perfectly and enhances my body beautifully while still being modest. The skirt rides up so I'll have to wear sheer stockings underneath them and I have to go over it with my lint roller to make sure there is no fuzz.

A lilac chiffon hijab.

Most of my hijabs are chiffon, it's my go-to material because I like how flowy and lightweight it is, chiffon is very easy to work with and there are a million different styles. I have found a style that frames my face beautifully and suits my face shape perfectly and I do my hijab the same way pretty much every day. This color is muted and has a grey undertone and it looks very beautiful in combination with navy blue. My dad got me some silver hijab pins, they're a small detail but make me look a million times more put together, I need 4 pins to do the usual style and only 2 of them are visible so I just take the needles and put them to secure my scarf and make sure it stays where it is for the whole day (it never does). I will be wearing silver jewelry with this outfit so they're a nice touch and give me a more cohesive look.

Silver Jewelry.

All the clothes in my outfit have a cold undertone, so naturally I will wear silver with this ensemble. I will stack the Cartier Love Bracelet in Silver (thin model) with a basic diamond bracelet. I thought about adding Just un clou but I think that would be a little too much and it will not match the blouse. I am not really a big fan of Guess, and I don't own much from the brand but I love silver, I love butterflies and I am beyond obsessed with anything that is cute and classy and this watch ticks every box and it looks so adorable in person, I love it. I also wear earrings with my hijab whenever I can, they always need to be extra long to be visible over my scarf and I love the way they add some sparkle to my face, and how they swing with my every movement, it makes me look more vibrant and lively.

Lacoste Concept Zip Tote Bag. Tommy Hilfiger Ballet Flats.

Lacoste Tote Bags are ridiculously spacious, they fit everything you can think of but the handles are extremely thin so I am very hesitant about carrying some of my heavier stuff with me, I wouldn't trust it with my laptop or heavier books but it is extremely wide so it fits a lot of binders and notebooks with no issues and it does not damage the corners due to its width like my other bags, and you can just throw things and it is a convenient bag. The Tommy Hilfiger Ballet Flats are from Spring Season 2014 but you can't tell, they look like I just brought them out of the box and it's one of the reasons I love thrifting, you can find great prices for very low prices and they are of such great quality, the ballet flats are real leather and they do not look dated because it's a classic and timeless style.

[fashion-for-everyone]

Why I Ditched My Jeans for This $198 Soft Knit French Lounge Pant | Comfortable & Stylish Loungewear

If you've ever thought of trading in your jeans for something more comfortable but equally stylish, it’s time to meet your new wardrobe staple—the $198 Soft Knit French Lounge Pant. As someone who used to live in jeans, I never thought I’d ditch them for something cozier, but these pants have completely changed my perspective on loungewear. Perfect for both lounging at home and running errands, they offer an unbeatable combination of comfort, style, and versatility. Let me tell you why I made the switch and why you should consider adding these lounge pants to your wardrobe.

The Comfort Factor: Soft Knit That Feels Like a Dream

The first thing that caught my attention about these lounge pants is the luxurious soft knit fabric. Made from a high-quality French knit, these pants feel incredibly soft against the skin, making them perfect for all-day wear. They offer the kind of comfort you can only dream of in jeans, with a cozy yet breathable fabric that keeps you feeling relaxed no matter where you are. Once you experience the softness of these pants, you’ll understand why they’re an easy upgrade from your standard denim.

Effortless Style: The Perfect Blend of Casual and Chic

One of the most significant selling points of the Soft Knit French Lounge Pant is its versatility. Unlike your average sweatpants, these lounge pants have a chic, tailored look that elevates your casual style. The relaxed fit and minimalist design make them easy to dress up or down, depending on the occasion. Pair them with a classic white tee and sneakers for a laid-back weekend look, or style them with a sleek sweater and ankle boots for a more polished outfit. These pants are proof that you don’t have to sacrifice style for comfort.

Why I Ditched My Jeans

Jeans have been my go-to for years, but they often felt too restrictive for everyday wear. After slipping into the Soft Knit French Lounge Pant, I quickly realized that these pants offer all the ease and comfort my jeans lacked. With their stretchy waistband and relaxed fit, these lounge pants move with you, making them perfect for everything from working from home to going out for a casual dinner. And unlike jeans, which can feel stiff or tight, these pants offer a more relaxed vibe without sacrificing style.

Perfect for Travel: The Ideal Airplane Outfit

If you’re looking for travel-friendly pants that can take you from the airport to your destination in style, these lounge pants are it. The soft knit fabric ensures you’ll be comfortable during long flights, while the chic silhouette means you won’t look like you just rolled out of bed. Pair them with a cozy cardigan and a pair of sneakers, and you’re ready for any travel adventure. Plus, they’re lightweight and easy to pack, making them a great choice for weekend getaways or vacations.

How to Style the Soft Knit French Lounge Pant

These pants are the epitome of versatility, which means you can style them in multiple ways to suit any occasion. Here are a few ideas to inspire your looks:

Casual Day Out: Pair the pants with a basic tee and white sneakers for a casual, effortless look.

Work-from-Home Chic: Add a fitted turtleneck and cozy slippers to create a comfy yet stylish outfit for those Zoom calls.

Weekend Brunch: Dress them up with a chunky knit sweater and ankle boots for a cozy yet put-together brunch outfit.

Evening Stroll: For a casual evening walk, throw on a denim jacket and a pair of stylish flats.

The Investment: Are They Worth $198?

At $198, these lounge pants are an investment, but one that’s well worth it. The premium fabric, versatile design, and unmatched comfort make them a wardrobe essential that you’ll reach for time and time again. Consider how often you’ll wear them—they’re perfect for lounging, working from home, running errands, and even casual outings. With their quality construction and timeless style, these pants are built to last, giving you excellent value for your money.

Final Thoughts: Ditch Your Jeans for the Soft Knit French Lounge Pant

If you’re on the fence about swapping your jeans for something more comfortable, I can’t recommend the Soft Knit French Lounge Pant enough. With their cozy knit fabric, versatile style, and all-day comfort, they’re the perfect alternative to restrictive denim. After making the switch, I’ve never looked back—and I’m sure you won’t either. Whether you’re lounging at home, traveling, or heading out for a casual day, these pants are a must-have for anyone seeking both comfort and style.

[nithiyanantha]

Evolution of Martanity Wear: Traditional to Modern

While its origins are traditional, Martanity wear evolved with the changing needs and tastes of today's woman. This journey thus reflects broader changes in fashion and lifestyle as well: how clothes cope under pressure with modern life without discarding their historical roots.

 Traditional Martanity Wear: A Brief Overview

This is a far cry from the maternity wear of old, which, while functional, rarely bore an emphasis on style. The traditional garment, basically designed for comfort and practicality, usually had a simple cut in a modest design. Loose-fitting dresses and tunics were the staple garments that women relied on, as these accommodated the growing bellies but didn't really consider the fashionable aspects of maternity clothing.

 The Shift to Modern Martanity Wear

The shift from traditional to modern martanity wear was therefore initiated late in the 20th century. Society and attitude towards fashion have changed tremendously and also towards women. Today, maternity wear does not only look towards comfort; it feels good, incorporating style and individuality. Designers have started including trendy fabrics, vibrant colors, and contemporary cuts to make the martanity wear functional yet fashionable.

 Modern Trends in Martanity Wear

1. Stylish Comfort: The modern martanity wear gives maximum emphasis on comfort without compromising on style. Stretchy fabrics, adjustable features, and innovative designs ensure that the mother-to-be is feeling good while looking great. These garments are crafted to provide ease of movement while maintaining a stylish appearance.

2. Versatile Designs: Martanity wear has versatile designs to be worn during and after pregnancy. This is just part of a larger trend towards practicality and sustainability within fashion.

3. Integrated Technology: Improvements in fabric technology have brought about Martany Wear endowed with temperature control and moisture-wicking ability to ensure the woman is comfortable across various scenarios.

Practical Tips: How Long Can I Wear a Maternity Belt After Delivery in a Day?

The evolution of martanity wear also comes with practical considerations for new mothers. Among the typical concerns of a new mother during the post-delivery period is how long to wear a maternity belt after delivery in a day.

A maternity belt is essential in the postpartum period since it can offer critically needed support, therefore helping reduce discomfort and supporting the abdominal muscles. One can wear it for some hours during the day, especially at times when one needs to be on their feet. However, it is always best to listen to one's body and make any adjustments according to comfort and need in the duration of use. Consultation from a healthcare professional can give one custom-made advice on how long to use a maternity belt after delivery.

 Embracing Modern Solutions

Modern maternity wear is more of a reflection of changing lifestyles and needs than just a fashion statement. The journey of maternity wear, from traditional designs to modern day innovations, speaks of a broader story of change and adjustment. With women continuing to seek clothes that offer as much comfort as style, the industry will evolve further, combining practicality with modern aesthetics.

Knowing how long to wear it after delivery and other practical aspects are just part of the broader evolution of martanity wear. One does enjoy a better and more stylish pregnancy with the adoption of tradition combined with modernity. As we move into the future, martanity wear has in store much more new innovations that will further ensure the continuity of meeting the dynamic needs of women worldwide.

[stylistfortheyoungatheart]

Check out this listing I just added to my Poshmark closet: Angie Split Front Striped Palazzo Pants, Small, $32.

[rejiggerbirds]

Check out this listing I just added to my Poshmark closet: St. Johns Basics Women's Pants Size 12 Black.

[gasterofficial]

@kanrix too many pictures to put in a reply or anything so i'm just gonna make a post FHLDSKJFHDLSKf this also goes out to anyone else who could benefit from my little gaster cosplay tutorial fhjkghkfg

aight this is the earliest picture i have but basically I cut an oval out of 4mm foam, and used scrap pieces of the same size foam that i just had laying around to do another layer on top for added support and thickness. after that i did my best to roughly mark where my eyes, nose and mouse were and cut the eyes out so that they would line up with my own, and used the markings for the mouth and nose to cut a hole into the inside of the mask for my nose to fit into. the mask has a higher layer of foam only on the very tip of the nose because i had to keep my nose from sticking out or pushing the mask too far off my face lol.

anyway after all of that i used a heat gun to heat the foam (WITHOUT melting it and preferably in a well-ventilated area) on both sides and then held it to my face in position to help it mold better to the shape of my head. it looked like this when i was done (i also cut into the upper layer of foam to make the eye scars)

after that I covered the entire thing with this amazing thing called foam-mo, it's basically like foam in a water-based binder that behaves like craft clay. it's easy to work with and SUPER lightweight when it dries and it's absolutely perfect for making organic textures

it lost a bit of the dimensionality in the drips after it dried, but I just went over it with another layer where I wanted more texture, and used a dremel tool with a sanding bit to sand down parts that I wanted more depressed.

then after that were the first and second paint jobs. this included using an ultra dark carbon nanotube ink in the scars to get them as black as possible (and matte). after the second paint job I used a type of fabric called "speaker cloth" to cover up the eye and mouth holes. I hot glued the speaker cloth down from the inside and then painted over the fabric on both sides with fabric stiffener on the mouth hole ONLY (it can make it harder to see through the eye holes) since the mouth hole is so wide and is most subject to the shape distortion from how the mask was heat-shaped.

then finally the last paint job which included final shading touchups AND some extra work with white puffy paint, which I used to give the effect of the face dripping down.

the very last step was adding the pupils as a dot of intense blue glow in the dark paint. it took a few coats to get it thick enough, and then on top of the bead of glow in the dark paint i added a tiny dot of plain white paint to make them pop even more. add a 1/2 inch elastic strap around the back of the mask glued down on the inside and you're done!

also, here's some pictures of the first glove I painted, if the reference would be helpful. The gloves were sewn using a self-made "hand turkey" pattern from tracing the shape of my hand onto paper. it's not a perfect pattern, but it's serviceable enough for stretchy fabrics. and I did use a stretchy fabric: white moisture-wicking athletic wear fabric, because I was worried my hands would sweat a lot. and I was right! but this choice of fabric makes that much less of a problem. and also makes you feel like your hands are freezing off (being in the void simulator ig)

the painting job was done with just plain black and white acrylics mixed with a fabric paint medium. i traced the finger joints where my fingers actually creased, and just kind of... did my best to make the palm holes match up lmfao

As for the cloak and robe, I did sew those both myself, so I can't point you to a seller. BUT what I CAN do is tell you what patterns and fabrics I used and whether or not it was worth the intense labor of love! (short answer, for the cloak? yes! for the robe? NO.) I'd have to go dig up the patterns though, so let me know if that's of interest to anybody

but yeah, hope this post is informative and potentially helpful!

[fizzydrink698]

who is a thigh man i suddenly cant get this out of my brain fi help

-🐰

you know what, i’m making this a whole super-scientific analysis of each member. what kind of guy is each skz member?

chan: “i don’t have a preference, i love everything about you, it’s all my favourite 🥰🥰” he says, like a liar, because the second you wear his hoodie and some lil tiny underwear his eyes are glued to those legs every time you turn around. occasionally gets the strange desire out of nowhere to just gently bite your thigh. the image just shoves its way into his brain at 4am when he’s blearily staring at that laptop screen, and he just “.exe has stopped responding” for a good few mins as he imagines it.

minho: ass guy. you’ve all seen his habit of squeezing/tapping/grabbing other member’s butts. he’s the kind of guy who slides his hand into your back pocket and keeps it there with zero shame. will squeeze your ass and just smirk and go “peachy” and then wander off like nothing happened. a menace to butts everywhere. a men-ass.

changbin: likes a little bit of everything. a man of many tastes. like maybe, just maybe, might lean towards boobs over ass but it changes from person to person. will buy ridiculously expensive underwear for his s/o with zero remorse bc he wants to spoil, but i see it being that kind of sporty, basic underwear. name-brand thick waistbands, stretchy soft fabric. also has a thing for lips, that’s where his eyes go when talking to someone he’s attracted to. you wear shiny lipgloss, the man wants to smear it.

hyunjin: i cannot explain why, but shoulders. hyunjin likes shoulders. likes to grab them. likes the visual of grabbing them. likes resting his head on them. likes how they look in vests. you do one (1) lateral press in front of him and he just stares, no thoughts all simping. more into thighs/ass than chest though. leggings are his kryptonite.

jisung: boobs. i cannot express this enough. BOOBS. male tiddies, female tiddies, jisung is just really distracted by an impressive chest. the kind of guy who’s trying so hard to look at your face, but you keep catching his gaze just d i p p i n g as you speak. cannot function if the cleavage is out. cannot function if that t-shirt is straining over those pecs. you wanna treat this boy? cute, lacy lingerie, or a super small t-shirt.

felix: felix is a touchy guy, he wants his hands everywhere. the real “no personal preference” guy that chan can only aspire to be. it’s hard to distract and “😳😳” this guy in the same way you can do with jisung so easily. he’ll see you dressed up and just “you’re so pretty 🥰” and compliment you throughout the night. he appreciates. he enjoys. spooning is his favourite activity, one arm wrapped around the waist, one hand stroking your head. then neck. back. slips under that shirt. you get the idea.

seungmin: i don’t see it mentioned often, but low-key, seungmin strikes me as a guy who’s quite into muscles. he appreciates a good arm, but especially muscly thighs. the kind of guy who sits next to you at dinner and keeps his hand on your thigh. resting, stroking maybe as he’s talking, squeezing once or twice. is it sexual? is it just a subconscious thing? you’ll never know until you finish dinner and seungmin is either smiling without a care in the world as you drive home or pulls you along by the wrist to rail you in the restaurant bathroom. he’s a man of many layers. the duality.

jeongin: he gives me some boobs vibes, but i think above all he just appreciates pretty. cute. just an attractive person, giving him big doe eyes and making him feel all special and manly and responsible. i can also see him as the guy that rubs your lower back while snuggling and then just letting it sliiiide down. very handsy in private, definitely not in public bc he gets embarrassed.

[uglywizardhat]

all of this is true, but i wanna offer some advice for people who are really interested in the idea of sewing but the idea of all this diligence is fucking terrifying:

approach your first project(s) with a learning mindset, not an 'i'm going to wear this forever' mindset. my first shirt is technically wearable, but it's kind of dogshit! and that's fine, i learned a lot about how like. Arms Work

it helps to study the clothes you already own. where are the seams, and why are they there? seams add structure to a garment, they're like a skeleton, so typically you want them to flow with the lines of the human body. if some clothes feel like they fit poorly, compare them to similar garments that fit well and see what the differences are (it's probably where the shoulder seam lies)

when you're doing that, and if you're using a pattern, pay attention to how everything pieces together, think of it like a 3D puzzle - most garments are made from the same basic building blocks.

go to goodwill or the thrift store of your choice. go to the linens section. get some flat sheets. bam, cheap as shit draft fabric for you to fuck around with.

related: stretchy materials are a lot easier to get a final product that actually fits out of, because they're more forgiving on the body. but they're a bitch to sew. build the fundamentals using woven fabrics first.

note that i said 'if' you're using a pattern. you don't need a pattern. shhh. hold my hand. look at your own clothes. watch videos about making clothes. watch videos about making specific parts of clothes ("attach collar stand" "adjust sleeve fit" things like that). if you learn best by doing, get an idea for the shapes of the puzzle pieces and approximate size, cut them out, pin them together, see if they fit, and if they don't, fix it. some people learn great by following very specific instructions. some people (me) learn best by fucking something up really bad and then figuring out how to fix it. if you're one of those people, give yourself space to fuck up, and then to fix it. i promise you'll learn SO much.

speaking of figuring out how to fix it: gussets. learn what a gusset is. if something doesn't fit, or doesn't fit quite right, can you add a gusset? you won't see them a lot on modern RTW clothes because they take time - it's easier (and cheaper) to make a huge armscye that will fit a lot of people and allow a decent amount of movement than to make a more fitted armscye with an armpit gusset that not only fits nicer and has less bulk, but allows more movement. if you look at clothes made before fast fashion was really a thing, gussets were way more common.

if you do use a pattern, many of them don't give instructions on finishing seams - they assume you'll just already know that's something that you have to do. the world is your oyster, here. i'm partial to french seams!

check what material the thread you're using is made of. cotton thread is sturdier, but you'll want slightly lower tension because it's not as stretchy as a polyester thread.

if your thread keeps breaking and rethreading the machine and fucking with the tension isn't helping, replace the needle. i don't care if you just replaced it a few hundred stitches ago, try it and see if it helps. the tiniest little imperfections on a needle will fuck it up.

if that doesn't help, wind a new bobbin. i don't know what's up with this, sometimes there's just something wrong with how a bobbin is wound and the machine will hate it.

your machine is a mechanical horse. it doesn't understand anything but will try and tell you when something's wrong. make sure you can hear it while you're sewing - if you wear headphones, keep the volume low enough that you can hear things like changes in the pitch or weird clicks.

facebook marketplace or craigslist for your first sewing machine. learn what you like before shopping for a grownup machine. don't be afraid of older machines, they're from a time before planned obsolescence and there are freaks on the internet who will be able to tell you exactly how to use it. they're me, i'm freaks.

being an impatient adhd-riddled asshole isn't the barrier to sewing your own clothes, i promise. just giving it a shot and learning why all the measuring and dilligence shit is like that makes it a million times more rewarding. cut all the corners in the world, learn which corners you are personally comfortable cutting, and then you'll feel way more motivated to not cut the ones you understand are important, instead of just doing shit because a book told you to.

Things I wish I had read in "beginner" sewing tutorials/people had told me before I started getting into sewing

You have to hem *everything* eventually. Hemming isn't optional. (If you don't hem your cloth, it will start to thread. There are exceptions to this, like felt, but most cloth will.)

The type of cloth you choose for your project matters very much. Your clothing won't "fall right" if it's not the kind of stretchy/heavy/stiff as the one the tutorial assumes you will use.

Some types of cloth are very chill about threading, some are very much not. Linen doesn't really give a fuck as long as you don't, like, throw it into the washing machine unhemmed (see below), whereas brocade yearns for entropy so, so much.

On that note: if you get new cloth: 1. hem its borders (or use a ripple stitch) 2. throw it in the washing machine on the setting that you plan to wash it going forward 3. iron it. You'll regret it, if you don't do it. If you don't hem, it'll thread. If you don't wash beforehand, the finished piece might warp in the first wash. If you don't iron it, it won't be nice and flat and all of your measuring and sewing will be off.

Sewing's first virtue is diligence, followed closely by patience. Measure three times before cutting. Check the symmetry every once in a while. If you can't concentrate anymore, stop. Yes, even if you're almost done.

The order in which you sew your garment's parts matters very much. Stick to the plan, but think ahead.

You'll probably be fine if you sew something on wrong - you can undo it with a seam ripper (get a seam ripper, they're cheap!)

You can use chalk to draw and write on the cloth.

Pick something made out of rectangles for your first project.

I recommend making something out of linen as a beginner project. It's nearly indestructible, barely threads and folds very neatly.

Collars are going to suck.

The sewing machine can't hurt you (probably). There is a guard for a reason and while the needle is very scary at first, if you do it right, your hands will be away from it at least 5 cm at any given time. Also the spoils of learning machine sewing are not to be underestimated. You will be SO fast.

I believe that's all - feel free to add unto it.

[audreydoeskaren]

Dear Audrey, love reading your articles on the development of the Cheongsam. Some of the ‘technical terms’ went over my head (trim, beading, darts, collar/shoulder seams, piping etc) and I thought a glossary with definitions might help. Maybe a photo showing what exactly they look like and where they are located on the dress? It’s just a suggestion but I think it would help clarify all the great work you have done with each article :)

Hi, that's a great idea actually, thanks for suggesting it! My apologies for assuming that the people reading are also hobby sewists... For most of these you could look up the more detailed definitions online, I’ll just explain some common sewing terminology and how they are applied to historical Chinese clothing. I don’t know how much the average reader knows about sewing so let’s start with the basics.

Glossary of generic sewing terminology

Seams

The seam is the line along which two pieces of fabric are stitched together. It could be recognized on the outside of a garment as a bulging line or where the patterns don’t match up. Depending on the construction method, seams will be placed at different places. For Chinese historical clothing, they were usually present at the sides/underarms, center front, collar and sleeve extension.

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The stitching line is the seam.

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30s cheongsam. You can see the line at her left side which is the side/underarm seam.

Seam allowance

After two pieces of fabric are stitched together, there will be two thin rows of fabric left over on the inside that wouldn’t be seen (unless it’s a Hong Kong seam). This extra bit is the seam allowance. The width of the seam allowance could vary greatly depending on the purpose, but in Western historical clothing it was usually 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch; I actually have no idea how big the standard seam allowance was in China, maybe there was no standard and everybody just did what they liked. If you were planning to make the garment bigger in the future, you could use a big seam allowance so that there is some extra fabric.

The turquoise part is the seam allowance.

Raw edge

Any edge of a piece of fabric that is not bound or finished in any way is a raw edge, including the edges of seam allowances. It’s good practice to finish the raw edges so the fabric doesn’t fray and make the garment fall apart.

Fraying

Fabric that are loosely woven could have threads unravel at raw edges, which, if left unfinished, will slowly wear the fabric away. Some fabrics don’t fray, like jersey and wool, but these were European and weren’t available in China before the 18th century.

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Right and wrong side

The side of the fabric where the pattern is more visible is the right side, whereas the side that needs to be hidden is the wrong. With plain fabrics this isn’t a big deal since both sides look the same, but for printed fabrics or fabrics with woven patterns like 妆花 zhuanghua and 缂丝 kesi it’s important to note because only the right side has the pattern, the wrong side is just a bunch of incomprehensible lines. Ok some woven fabrics have patterns on both sides but they’re rare and expensive. I’ll make a glossary post for fabrics some time in the future. Most seams are made by stitching the fabric pieces with the right sides facing each other, so that when the seam is opened, the seam allowances would be inside and not visible.

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Selvage

The edges of a fabric at the left and right. Spelled selvedge in British English.

Warp and weft

The warp thread of a fabric goes up and down and is parallel to the selvage, the weft thread left and right and perpendicular.

Grain

The grain of a fabric refers to the directions of the threads. When a piece is cut perpendicular or parallel to the selvage it’s on a straight grain, when diagonal it’s on bias. Pieces cut on the straight grain are stable and stiff, those cut on bias are more stretchy and tend to wiggle about. Most Chinese clothing pieces were cut on the straight grain, but the bias grain played an important role in the shaping of cheongsam.

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Stitch

A stitch is a method in which the thread is worked through the fabric to connect, secure or decorate it. For some reason it’s very difficult to find information on what stitches were used on historical Chinese clothing... I think the most common stitches for Chinese historical clothing are the running stitch, running basting stitch and backstitch, all done by hand of course. 

Topstitch

Any stitch that is visible on the outside of the garment.

Running stitch

A running stitch is made by simply running the needle and thread up and down across the line of stitching, used to hold seams that don’t get a lot of stress. It’s relatively weak so it’s not good to use it on seams that require strength.

Source here

Basting stitch

Basically a running stitch but wider. It’s used to hold seams together temporarily since it’s fast to do and easy to pull out.

Backstitch

A backstitch is made by running the thread backward every time a forward running stitch is made. It’s very strong when done tightly by hand so it was the most common stitch used for seams that experience a lot of wear and tear. Backstitches didn’t have to be extremely strong before the republican era because Chinese clothes then were looser and didn’t require a lot of strength in the seams, but since tight fitting clothes became a thing in the 1910s, compact backstitches would be required for the side, underarm and collar seams so they won’t burst open.

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1930s form fitting cheongsam. For the seam at the side, which you can see from the mismatched pattern, a strong backstitch needs to be used if done by hand, otherwise the side would burst open. It could also be done by machine.

Machine stitch

As the name suggests, a stitch made by a sewing machine. Sewing machines were patented around the 1840s and began to be used in China in the 1870s, commonly made by Singer. China started producing its own sewing machines in the 1920s. Machine stitches look like running backstitches but are different to hand stitches in that they use two different threads that lock into each other as they move forward.

Slipstitch

Only slightly visible on the outside, a slipstitch is mostly used for hemming and finishes. Made at where the hem is folded up by only picking up a couple threads on the outer fabric and then running through the folded layer.

Source here

Raw edge finishes

I mentioned before that raw edges need to be finished to prevent fraying; there are many different ways to do this.

French seam

A classic seam finish in historical Chinese sewing. It’s not actually from France just called that in English lmao. This seam is kind of special and difficult to pull off because it requires you to stitch the fabrics wrong sides together first with a small seam allowance and then flipping it over and stitching them together again right sides together with a bigger seam allowance, encasing the smaller first seam allowance in the bigger second one. I used this for my 1930s cheongsam project which will be posted as soon as my pankou arrives.

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Binding

Using separate strips of fabric that are thin, long and usually cut on the bias (bias binding tape) to encase the raw edge. Could be completely functional or decorative like in 1930s cheongsam or 1890s ao. On cheongsam and ao it’s usually used around the outside edges i.e. along the slit, hem, placket and neck, at the sleeve hem, at the collar.

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1930s cheongsam worn by Ruan Lingyu, finished with two rows of decorative bias tape.

Hemming

By folding up the edge of the fabric twice and securing it to the main body with a slipstitch. Often used for robe, sleeve or skirt hems for unlined garments.

Construction systems

平裁 pingcai or flat tailoring

The historical method of cutting and making garments used in China and neighboring countries from the beginning of time to the 1950s. It involves cutting the front and back of the garment as one piece on fold twice (once at the shoulder once at the center front/back), resulting in a giant fabric piece that looks like a cross shape. Pingcai clothes could be hung flat in a T shape.

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Sewing pattern for a Ming Dynasty men’s robe.

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Pingcai kimono hung flat.

立裁 licai, 3D tailoring or Western tailoring

Western clothing construction techniques varied throughout eras but the general idea was that you could use shaped pattern pieces sewn together to create very 3D silhouettes. Sometimes they were so form fitting that they created artificial silhouettes out of the wearer’s body, which was the case with corsetry. Western pattern pieces usually look very funky with a lot of indentations and weird shapes. 

Construction features

Armhole/armscye

In pingcai, there is no armhole, the upper half of the sleeves are connected to the bodice; in the West this would be called a dolman sleeve. In licai, the bodice and sleeves are separate, so sleeves have to be “inserted” to a hole created by the front and back pieces. Methods and styles of sleeve insertion were different for each era.

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Generic Victorian/Edwardian bodice sewing pattern. The curve labelled 7 on the front and 5 on the back will become the armhole after sewing, and the sleeve has to be stitched to around that hole. That seam is the armhole seam.

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Modern hybrid cheongsam/aodai contraption. You can obviously see the seam at the shoulder, indicated by a line and stark contrast in light. The sleeves are very neat and angular when the arms are down because that’s the angle at which the sleeves were inserted, but when the arms are raised they begin to pucker. Most modern cheongsam have these sleeves despite having no historical precedent before the 1970s...

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1940s cheongsam with a dolman sleeve (no sleeve insertion or armhole seam). It looks rounded and smooth, with puckering under the armpits. When the arms are raised there will be no creases because the fabric was cut in this T shape.

Cap sleeve

A non-insertion sleeve that is very short, only covering the shoulders.

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1950s cheongsam. The two on the left are cap sleeved and the right one is sleeveless.

Darts

An important technique for shaping in Western tailoring is the dart. On sewing patterns they look like sharp, well, darts, and are made by pinching the fabric and stitching along this dart shape. This will make the fabric three dimensional. Darts on bodices are usually added at the waist and under the armpits to accommodate the protrusion of breasts, as well as at the hips for skirts. On a finished garment, a dart will appear like a seam but ends abruptly.

The two sharp dagger shapes on the front piece are the darts.

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How to sew a dart.

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1960s cheongsam sewing pattern. There are darts at the waist, back and under the armpits. By reducing fabric at these strategic places, the waist will become smaller and the chest area more protruding.

Pleating

Universal sewing technique. Done by folding a part of the fabric and stitching the top of it to the fabric underneath, creating a fitted part that then flares out. There are many different types of pleats but the most common ones used in China were knife pleat and box pleat. Commonly used for skirts in China.

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Qing Dynasty mamian skirt with knife pleats.

Gathering

Not really a thing in China before the 1920s. Done by running two rows of loose basting stitches through the top of a fabric and then pulling one side of the threads against the fabric, causing the fabric to bunch together. The gathers are then secured by a topstitch. Similar purpose to pleating as it creates a fitted top and a flared bottom, but has a more bulging, messy appearance compared to pleats which are ironed and neat. Also used to make skirts for aoqun ensembles.

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Late 20s evening skirt with a gathered waist.

Embellishments

Piping

A strip of fabric containing a round cord sandwiched in between a seam. Commonly used as decoration at raw edges of ao or cheongsam sandwiched between the outer fabric and lining. It could also be topstitched to the surface of a fabric as decoration, such as in 17th century changshan collars. In Europe it was commonly used on military uniforms and upholstery.

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A piece of piping.

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40s cheongsam finished with thin piping.

Trimmings/trim

Any kind of prefabricated flat ornamental strips that could be sewn to the edges of a garment. Common examples are lace, fringe and floral embroidery.

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Lace trims.

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30s cheongsam with geometric trim.

Embroidery

A method of ornamentation which runs colored threads through the fabric with needles to form patterns. Used throughout Chinese history but became very prevalent on clothing in the 18th/19th century.

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Embroidery in progress

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Mid 19th century robe with embroidery.

Beading

A method of ornamentation in which beads (small, three dimensional stone formed objects with a hole through which threads could be run) are strewn and sewn onto fabrics. Common beads include rhinestones, pearls, sequins and glass beads. In China, beading wasn’t commonly used until the late 1920s, even then it was reserved for eveningwear and quite rare.

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Beaded 1920s Western evening dress.

That’s all I could think of for now. I’ll probably add to this in the future :3